FINALLY! After long bloodbath, I have done my decals application. Here’s some shoots:

vfighterc10

vfighterc11

vfighterc12

vfighterc13

vfighterc14

I’d say it’s not bad, but not good either. As you can see, many “battle damage” here, some decals are rubbed off, torn apart or have “bubble”. I tried to painting the canopy with a mere Tamiya Clear Blue. It supposed to be in light clear purple color. I also painted the eye camera-goggle with Tamiya Clear Green. These are my first experience with hand brushing method. Still green, hehe, so the result are just so so or even bad ^^; what do you think?

vfighter-canopy vf-25f-altos-head

Here some tips I found during this weary battle:

  • If you want to apply the water decals, beware of its EDGE. Unlike the dry transfer, and I found it strange, the waterslides have excess edge and can be eyesore if you didn’t apply it right. So, do either cut the decals until its very edge or just use the Marking Seal (clear stickers). Surprisingly, they are (the clear stickers) not having any edges! Only the little details like the round mark have it and that’s not a big deal. The reason I hate these edges is you know, the red-black stripes at main fuselage. They are supposed to be conceal the seam lines, but with that excessive edges are preventing it to “combining” each others. For better explanation, see this comparison. ban955525_3 vfighterc10

left image is taken from hlj.com

  • My suggestion is to apply the decals after final assembly. My palms are always sweaty when it comes to this or when I got nervous. So, that’s very destructive to the decals ^^; Unless you using Mr. Mark Setter or Top Coat to protect the decals, do it like I said above when in BATTROID mode. Yes, it’s harder to apply it when the model is standing, but when in this mode, the gaps between parts are wide enough. So, the decals won’t be “sticking” to each others.

  • Most of the decals won’t be rubbed off during transformation, but beware the decals at wings (the black and grey stripe one). Since, the wings can slide, It’s possible to rub the decals when you slide it (it happened to me T_T)

  • Nub removing is also important. If the parts are cleaned from nubs, the seam lines will looked like a panel lines and it’s great IMO. Okay, maybe that’s all.

And listen, I really made many mistake when applying decals. I realize that the edges can be cut after applying half of the decals. But, even after I realize it and start to cut the edges, they still rub off and broken during the transformation. This is because I didn’t use the Mr. Mark Setter and not pressed the decals hard enough so they didn’t “melt” perfectly and still have “bubble” in it (Thanks to Z for the info). And one think, KEEP AWAY your models from CHILDREN! They tend to touch it when they see it and tempted to play with it (sigh….) So, better to hide your kits when any children is at your house ^^;

Now’s for complaining section ^^;

I should say this kit is my dream comes true. I really want a Macross kit for a long time ago and Bandai did marvelous job this time ^^. The proportions are 99% when in Fighter and GERWALK mode, unless you counted the landing gears, they are illogical IMO. Too high and how come when the gears are 5 cm and the nose is just 4 cm? But nevertheless, it is almost perfect. Batrroid proportion is 90% I’d say. I don’t know why, but the animated series and this plamo has little different. Despite that, arms and legs articulation are just in par with average MG models.

I’d like Bandai to add more locking mechanism to stabilize every mode. They do great job with Zeta ver.2.0 but why didn’t do it to this VF? Or, they can be revolutionary by providing die cast metals for joints or even magnets at nose and the base of neck. With magnet, it will even more stable when on Battroid mode. Therefore, when in fighter mode, the legs are just relying at the waist joints. I’m afraid when the joints weaken they just drop off easily. And they should add locking too for the nose and wings. If the canopy has its own joint, I must be awesome. GERWALK mode is just unstable; I’m having hard time by just adjusting the legs, when the Battroid is just fine as it is. The hands, I’m will be very happy if they like MG hands.

But, despite those issues above, I still can’t do it perfectly. I haven’t used this sophisticated mechanism that Bandai provided to its full extent yet. I hope my skill growing time to time so someday I can build the model like you all, the model which is clean from nubs, perfect decals/stickers-placing, or maybe some paint to make the kit even more beautiful ^^

Again, nevertheless, this kit is great in term of design and mechanism. But if you prefer colored VF, I suggest you to buy the other variant like Ozma’s, Michel’s, or Luca’s unit. Especially Luca’s, they comes with THREE Ghost unit! Or buy the Super Messiah one. Okay, for now that’s all. Won’t be placing it at review pages yet until I get my Action Base 1 / SMS version. Instead I will place this review:

strike

This is the third gunpla I ever have. I bought it after my long absence after built MG G-3 Gundam. The gap is almost 3 years. SEED was rocking back then and I’m going crazy with Strike and friends. Okay, that’s for now, thanks for reading.

Oh yeah, do HLJ sell decals for each kits too? I mean spare decals for specifics kit. If no, do you know where to get it? Feel free to answer okay? ^^ Thanks again!

Advertisements